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SPRING 2018 NEW YORK FASHION WEEK

SPRING 2018 NEW YORK FASHION WEEK

Tom Ford Returns To New York Fashion Week

Spring 2018 New York Fashion Week. Tom Ford
Spring 2018 New York Fashion Week. Tom Ford

Spring 2018 New York Fashion Week. When you walk into a fashion show at New York’s Park Avenue Armory and you see Chaka Khan, Ciara, and Russell Westbrook you know you’re in for a good time. But that was just the beginning at Tom Ford. As his latest fragrance “Fucking Fabulous” hinted, the designer was ready to return to New York with a bang—and he did. His back-to-tradition runway show was everything you wanted it to be: bold, bright, and yes, sexy. – NIKKI OGUNNAIKE, Senior Fashion Editor for Elle

Calvin Klein Focuses on America

Spring 2018 New York Fashion Week. Calvin Klein
Spring 2018 New York Fashion Week. Calvin Klein

Raf Simons’s Calvin Klein experiment is an American experiment. Last season he identified classic tropes—diner uniforms; cowboy boots; denim, of course. For Spring, he added layers. The new motifs included Andy Warhol prints of Dennis Hopper circa Easy Rider and a 1971 Sandra Brant (is there an art movement more American than Pop?), cheerleaders, and horror movies. His Hitchcock blondes wore rubber, and gauzy nightgowns conjured Sissy Spacek in Carrie. Above the runway, Sterling Ruby installed gleaming metal buckets not unlike the one in that movie’s pivotal prom scene. -Nicole Phelps, Director of Vogue Runway

Alexander Wang Vs. Philipp Plein

Spring 2018 New York Fashion Week. Philip Plein
Spring 2018 New York Fashion Week. Philip Plein

Alexander Wang’s #WANGFEST, which took place all around the city of New York on a party bus and dead ended at  Bushwick, Brooklyn where the fashion elite gathered to watch him present his Spring 2018 collection, was very controversial this year. Many tweets and comments were made about attendees being pushed/shoved, feeling forced to party, and some saying there was no fashion collection to be seen. On the other hand, Vogue, claimed it to be the “most memorable after-parties of this season’s New York Fashion Week.”

Women’s Wear Daily wrote of the show, “As a professionally obligated attendee, being penned in by security on a sidewalk all night to see a five-minute fashion show, and then being commanded to party, felt like a big middle finger up.”

And fashion blogger Bryanboy tweeted while at the show, “Raise your hands if you’re part of free press who never thought they’d wish they went to a plein instead of Wang. #bigmistake #big #huge.”

Victoria Beckham’s Collection Delicacy Meets Strength

Spring 2018 New York Fashion Week. Victoria Beckham
Fashion: Spring 2018 New York Fashion Week. Victoria Beckham

“I loved the tailoring and the layering of short sleeved shirts over long sleeves and the trousers were a strong straight leg shape. It was nice to see a wearable colour palette. Personally my favourite colour was the lilac – it seems to be around a lot for SS18 as well.” – Natalie Hartley, GLAMOUR UK Fashion Director

Oscar De La Renta: Paying Homage in the Wrong Way

Fashion: Spring 2018 New York Fashion Week. Oscar de la Renta
Spring 2018 New York Fashion Week. Oscar de la Renta

The design duo is making a real effort to pay homage to the late designer in their own whimsical way. That included taking hand-written letters, presumably by Oscar himself, who died in 2014. The words might appear on a white, long-sleeved T-shirt; or as a prom dress with an askew overlap of bold glitter letters: ‘S’, ‘C’, ‘R’ and so on spelling de la Renta’s first name.

Other work was simply decorative, like colourful beading on a tailored white coat, while a pink parka jacket, worn over a transparent dress scattered with a collage of tulips and with a visible bikini, seemed a baffling way of translating the original designer’s odyssey into a supposedly modern look. – Suzy Menkes, International Vogue Editor

Eckhaus Latta’s Diverse Runway 

Fashion: Spring 2018 New York Fashion Week. Eckhaus Latta
Spring 2018 New York Fashion Week. Eckhaus Latta

Each season, NYC upstart-brand Eckhaus Latta pushes the envelope just as far in regard to their dynamic casting as they do via their experimental apparel. Saturday proved no exception, as a diverse band of catwalk trotters—styled in the brand’s SS18 collections—strode through a sun-dappled Brooklyn warehouse to the live vocals of Moses Sumney.

Ranging from teens to retirees, they spanned the ethnic spectrum, granting visibility to a myriad of body types, identities, and sensibilities along the way. Expectant mothers, heart-throb skaters, and indie-R&B recording artists were among the pack—many of them friends of the brand’s founders, Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta. – Kiwbe Chase-Marshall for PAPER

Ralph Lauren Shows Off His Impressive Car Collection

Fashion: Spring 2018 New York Fashion Week. Ralph Lauren
Fashion: Spring 2018 New York Fashion Week. Ralph Lauren

While there was no shortage of amazing sets this fashion week—ahem, Rihanna’s Fenty runway show—Ralph Lauren really takes the cake. An exclusive guest list of editors, influencers, and celebrities like Jessica Chastain, Diane Keaton, Katie Holmes, and Aimee Song, traveled to suburbs of New York to celebrate the iconic brand’s latest shoppable collection at a private garage, where the designer keeps 60 of the rarest cars in the world. Talk about an iconic backdrop for a runway show. – Jennifer Davis, InStyle

Jermey Scott’s 20th Anniversary Show

Fashion: Spring 2018 New York Fashion Week. Jeremy Scott
Fashion: Spring 2018 New York Fashion Week. Jeremy Scott

A quick glance around the colorful crowd at Jeremy Scott’s spring 2018 show Friday night would have made a time traveler from the Nineties feel very much at home. The front row was awash in neons, metallics and stonewashed denim and fittingly so — the designer was celebrating his 20th anniversary collection. – Andrew Nodell, WWD

Marc Jacobs Ends NYFW With Silent Show

Spring 2018 New York Fashion Week. Marc Jacobs
Spring 2018 New York Fashion Week. Marc Jacobs

He’s not leaving. Period. End of story. An exasperated Marc Jacobs made that declaration — again — when asked if his finale music carried a message of goodbye. The result was a collection of clothes that screamed fashion. Some should thrive on the selling floor (cardigans, coats); some cry out for intelligent merchandising (dropped-crotch pants; the most gigantic outerwear); some exist for beauty’s sake, and to appeal to the fashion-obsessive set (sparkling gowns; beaded cage tops, an ode to Saint Laurent). Ditto the accessories. Bags in countless iterations and sizes looked plenty commercial. If the same can’t necessarily be said of dainty brocade boudoir slippers under explosive silk tassels, surely, they’ll strike the fancy of a few well-heeled feet heading, well, somewhere. – Bridget Foley, WWD

Click to read more about Fashion Month including schedules and shows you can’t miss!

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Alessandro Dalai
Articoli dell'Autore / Alessandro Dalai