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SS18 PARIS FASHION WEEK

SS18 PARIS FASHION WEEK

Dior Fairy Tale Feminism 

SS18 Paris Fashion Week. Dior
SS18 Paris Fashion Week. Dior

SS18 Paris Fashion Week. Her (Maria Grazia Chiuri) third ready to wear collection doubled down on her feminist leanings, opening the show with a double denim look emblazoned with the words, ‘Why Have There Been No Great Women Artists?’ which is also the title of an essay written by the American art historian, Linda Nochlin. The strong statement made for a heady counterbalance to her otherwise light and youthful clothes. Feminism in a pink and black striped bodysuit and floaty (dare I say, girly?) sheer tulle skirt? Why not? – Kenya Hunt, Elle UK

Comme De Garcons & Nike’s High Heel Boxing Boots

SS18 Paris Fashion Week. Comme Des Garcons
SS18 Paris Fashion Week. Comme Des Garcons

Looking at the pictures it might sound crazy, but this was one of her most light-hearted and democratic collections in seasons: little horror and pain, lots of liveliness and playfulness. And while it’s all relative, it was also her most wearable runway collection in years. Like a graffiti artist mischievously vandalising the walls of the establishment for the mainstream to take in, this was Kawakubo at her most ingenious. She simplified her message to extend her reach, and in doing so, served up her anti-establishment spirit to the new mainstream audience she acquired through the Met and its illustrious ball. – Anders Christian Madsen, Vogue UK

Chloe’s New Vision

SS18 Paris Fashion Week. Chloe
SS18 Paris Fashion Week. Chloe

The most important and powerful quality of the pretty mid-calf dresses, decorative tops with shorts, and elaborate sweaters with hug-me-tight jeans was that it was all ineffably and deliciously French – the world of exquisite macaroons and discreet sexual allure. In a fashion industry that prides itself on its global reach, the designer achieved that most difficult of styles: local and global. It came in the free-flowing hair and subtle make-up, but also in the attitude. – Suzy Menkes, International Vogue Editor

Virgil Abloh’s Princess Diana Inspired Collection for Off White

SS18 Paris Fashion Week. Off White
SS18 Paris Fashion Week. Off White

Abloh did deference to the People’s Princess with a slew of references and nods, but it was difficult to gauge how much he was channeling Diana’s style superpowers. Was Abloh engaging seriously with Diana’s ability to communicate through clothing, or is his gift more an ability to point a lightning bolt at the zeitgeist? Some of the references were so literal—a clutch that looked like a present recalled a paparazzi photo of Diana carrying a present—while other elements, like mummy-ish tulle, made you wonder if bringing metaphor into the equation was not at all the point. – Rachel Tashjian, Vice

 

Chanel’s Waterproof Fashion

SS18 Paris Fashion Week. Chanel
SS18 Paris Fashion Week. Chanel

On Tuesday morning, Karl Lagerfeld, fashion’s own indomitable force of nature, paid tribute to that one identified by da Vinci with a Chanel collection that was all about water. The clothes, too, were inspired by water, though not in an obvious way. Well, not obvious except for the raindrop earrings and repellent plastics for Chanel boaters, boots (many over the knee), handbags and outwear, both functional (hooded capes and anoraks) and decorative (little tippets). But for the most part, Lagerfeld delivered the motif via fabrics — tweeds, laces, knits — shot with metallic to glisten and change with movement and subtle shifts of light; sheer, open-work constructions, some suggesting ripples, others, fishnet cellophane fringe; abstract watery prints; shaggy fringing that mimicked seaweed.- Bridget Foley, WWD

 

Louis Vuitton Ends Paris Fashion Week

SS18 Paris Fashion Week. Louis Vuitton
SS18 Paris Fashion Week. Louis Vuitton

Full-sleeved musketeer shirts were trapped under 18th century frock coats and long Louis XV waistcoats threaded in lurex brocade for a sparkly, electric majesty that wasn’t of our time – or a time we’ve ever known. Ghesquière had visited the Met in New York and fallen in love with a collection of original frock coats from the Baroque and Rococo eras. He thought, “What category of clothes can I explore to try to make a surprise with this flamboyant feeling?” The designer instinctively made the historical garments part of his contemporary urban world, he said backstage, by assimilating them into sportswear. – Anders Christian Madsen, Vogue UK

Click the link to find out more about the Month of Fashion. 

Salva

Rebecca Fabick
Meet the author / Rebecca Fabick

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